Sewing Tutorial: How to Sew a Double Layered Bodice

We have used this double layered method for our Nova Midi Dress, Montana Midi Dress and for the facing of the June Sheath Dress. For this tutorial I have used the Nova Midi Dress pattern. The construction sheet instructs that you should cut 2 main front bodice and 2 main back bodice. I am treating the darker pink as the outside layer, the light pink as the lining or inner bodice and I have used blue thread so that it can be seen.

Note that I did not add the front or back neck stabilizer to my bodice pieces and I did not flat stitch (edge stitch) my seams!

Step 1

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Cut pattern taking note of the notches, bust darts and any other notes on pattern pieces. Sew the bust darts for inner and outer bodice and press down.

Step 2

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With right sides together sew the front and back bodice side seams together for the inner and outer bodice. Press seam open.

Step 3

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Place inner and outer bodice together with right sides facing.

Step 4

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With right sides facing sew neck seam of the two bodices together between notches. Press seam to the inner bodice and sew a flat stitch close to the seam on the inner bodice.

Step 5

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With right side together sew the inner and outer armholes together between notches 5cm (2”) down from the shoulder seam. Press seam to inner bodice and flat stitch on inner bodice side.

Step 6

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Now neck seam and armhole seam are sewn together between the notches but shoulder seam is still free turn to right side.

Step 7

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Bodice with right side out. Shoulder seam still unsewn.

Step 8

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To sew shoulder seams. Pull shoulders down through in between the front outer bodice and front inner bodice.

Step 9

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After you have pulled the shoulders through, the right sides for each layer will be together.

Step 10

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Sew the shoulder seam and press open. Repeat on other side.

Step 11

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Once shoulder seams are sewn return bodice to be right side out.

Step 12

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Now only the armhole and neck on either side of the shoulder seam shoulder seam need to be sewn together.

Step 13

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Pull shoulder down through between the front bodice outer and front bodice inner.

Step 14

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Pull through until you can align the shoulder seam and notches.

Step 15

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Sew between notches, repeat on neck side.

Step 16

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Return bodice to be right side out and repeat on other side. Your bodice is now ready to attach the skirt.