BODICE:
Sew two large rows of gathering stitches to the bottom of the front bodice piece, where noted on the pattern. Gather in the bottom of the bodice to match the length of the waist on the centre front skirt panel.
With wrong sides facing fold and press the waist bias trim in half, lengthways. Sew a stay stitch along the seam line to keep trim secure.
With right sides facing place the waist bias trim on top of the gathered lower front bodice matching the seams and stitch. Press bias trim towards the body.
With right sides facing attach front and back shoulders together. Neaten with overlocker/serger and press to the back.
With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams together. Clip around the seam edge and then neaten with overlocker/serger and press to the back.
Sew back darts and press towards the centre back (not pictured).
Fuse front and back neck facing pieces. With right sides facing sew the shoulder seams of the front neck facing to the back neck facing pieces. Press seams open. (Not pictured).
With right sides facing pin the neck facing pieces to the bodice neck, matching seams. Once in place stitch together, stopping 4cm (1 ½”) from the centre back seam. This will be completed at step 25. Clip the seam around the neckline and press towards the neck facing.
Turn to the correct side of the fabric and under stitch around the neckline, on the side of the facing. Neaten the lower edge of the facing with overlocker/serger.
SKIRT:
With right sides facing sew the side panels to the centre front panel. Neaten seams with overlocker/serger and press to the back.
With right sides facing sew the left back skirt to the left-side panel. Neaten seams with overlocker/serger and press to the back.
With right sides facing sew the right back skirt to the right-side panel. Neaten seams with overlocker/serger and press to the back.
With right sides facing pin the skirt to the bodice, matching notches, and seams. Once in place stitch together. Neaten seam with overlocker/serger and press towards the skirt.
Turn to the correct side of the fabric and edge-stitch the centre front bodice, on the side of the skirt. This will secure the trim and ensure it points upward (not pictured).
Fuse the inside of the wearer’s left back skirt split, where noted on the pattern. Neaten around the hem and centre back seams with an overlocker/serger.
Fold the fused panel towards the inside and press, following the fold line on the pattern. Repeat for the wearer’s right side back split. At the top of the back split sew the angled seam of each back vent. The wearer’s left vent will sit over the wearer’s right vent.
With right sides facing sew the seam between lower zip notch and the top of the hem split.
With right sides facing attach zipper to left centre back seam, first with a regular foot, to keep secure and then again with an invisible zipper foot. See Invisible Zip Tutorial on www.stylearc.com, if needed. Repeat for the right centre back seam, ensuring the waist seams match each other.
From the inside place the left vent on top of the right vent and stitch across the top angle.
(Not pictured) With right sides facing fold both vents along the fold line and stitch across the hemline of the vent, turn out to the right side and hand stitch the hem.
COMPLETION OF THE NECK:
To complete the top of the zip and the neck facing, with right sides together sew the section of the neck facing and neck that was left open previously, from the inside stitch the vertical back seam of the neck facing to the centre back top edge of the body/ zip tape.
(Not pictured) Turn to the right side and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch around the neckline. Sew a small hand stitch to the shoulder seams of the facing to the body to hold in place.
SLEEVES:
With right sides facing sew the two short ends of the cuff together, press seam open. Turn through to the right side and press cuff in half lengthways.
With right sides facing sew the two short ends of the cuff bias trim together, press seam open and turn out. With wrong sides facing press the trim in half, lengthways. Sew a stay stitch along the seam line of the trim, to keep secure.
Unfold the cuff and with right sides facing place the cuff trim on top of the cuff, lining raw edges together and stitch down. Put piece aside until step 33.
With right sides facing sew the underarm seam together of the lower sleeve piece together. Neaten with overlocker/serger and press to the back.
Sew two large rows of gathering stitch (only 1 row of gathering stitches pictured) to the lower edge of the sleeve pieces, draw the gathering up evenly to match the cuff width.
With right sides facing pin one edge of the cuff, the one with the trim to the gathered edge of the lower sleeve, matching underarm seams. Once in place stitch together.
Neaten the remaining edge of the cuff with overlocker/serger and press towards the inside of the cuff. From the correct side of the fabric edge-stitch on the side of the cuff, secure the inner cuff to the outer.
With right sides facing pin the lower sleeve into the sleeve opening on the bodice, matching underarm notches. Once in place stitch together, neaten seam with overlocker/serger and press towards the lower sleeve.
(Not pictured) Sew a hook and eye to the top centre back, above the invisible zip.
Press your new dress!