The flat stitching (or understitching) is sewn to keep facings and linings from peaking out, especially around necklines and armholes and around the waist on a lined skirt to stop the lining riding up. It also means that when turned and pressed, the seam line tends to favor the inside of the garment.

This is how we suggest you sew Talia Woven Pant welt pocket.

Meet my mom! She is Sallie’s favorite person in the world. I love the look Sallie is giving in this photo – she’s totally saying “my parents are so embarrassing!” (BTW can you believe these two kids have been married 56 years?) Neither the Style Arc Stevie (note: affiliate link) nor the Style Arc Jema (note: affiliate link) are something I would make for myself, as I… Continue Reading On clothingengineer.com

I don’t normally sew handbags. (In general I’m not a craft or home decor sewer.) But lately I’ve been wanting something classier than my old nylon L.L.Bean bag. In addition to being turned off by the high prices retailers demand for genuine leather bags, I realized that I wanted something more unique than what was being offered. That’s when I decided to make the Paris tote… Continue Reading On clothingengineer.com

This clever pattern creates beautiful draping at the front while leaving the back as a regular shirt. Wear it with a cami or use a press stud to close the cross over at the front. You will love this top! Fabric Suggestions: Silk, crepe, viscose or you could use a jersey knit. Because of the… Read More

Fabric Suggestions: Light weight suiting, linen Helpful Hints: The back hem facing/ side hem facing seam is located about 2.7cm (1″) beyond the side back pleat seam. This is to minimize bulk at the pleat fold. Make sure to mark the notches at the hemline carefully on both the body panels and facing. Construction: Sew… Read More

Fabric Suggestions: Charmeuse, soft wool or any soft fabric of your choice. Trims: My suggestion: include “shock cord” and “elastic cord” as an alternative to”hat elastic”. It is easier for US-based customers to source. Helpful Hints: Cut out the pattern, taking note of the grainlines, maximum stretch, and the notes written on the pattern pieces… Read More

Press back the center front piece along the foldline. Press the collar and hem edges along their foldline. Now fold the long edge so right sides are together. Mark the pivot point, which is 3/8?from the horizontal cut edge shown below. Begin sewing, starting from the foldline of the long folded edge. Reduce your stitch… Read More

Construction With right sides together fold back and press the front panel where marked on the pattern toward the inside of the garment (wrong sides together.) Now turn back the folded edges so right sides are together, but do not press. Starting from the folded edge, stitch across the top edge of the neck edge… Read More

This is quick & easy way to finish neckline of your garment. This method can be used on stretch & woven fabrics.With right sides together sew the short ends of the neck bandTurn to correct side & press the band in halfPin neckband to neck; once in place sew on matching notches.Fold neckband at centre… Read More

This is a tutorial on how to sew front angled zip pockets on Shelby Sweat Pant.

Step 1 Lay collar pieces face to face & stitch around the outer edge of collars. Trim corners 2mm from stitching line to reduce thickness. Step 2 Turn to face (bag out) & press. Step 3 Press lower edge of outer collar stand upwards to secure seam allowance. Step 4 Place collar between collar stands… Read More

You can use this technique for sewing sleeve split tabs, neckline opening or stylised hem splits. This method is easy & will make your split neatly finished. Step 1 Sewing tabs is 80% preparation & pressing & 20% stitching. Step 2 Press outer seams of tabs. Step 3 Then fold in half & press. Make… Read More

Step 1 Join side seams on waistbands & press open. Step 2 Fold up seam allowance of inner waistband along lower edge & press. Step 3 Stitch top edges of front & back waistband, sides & button step on the right side. Then turn to right side & press. Step 4 Pin waistband to waist… Read More

The crotch seam should always be sewn this way to improve the crotch shape. Step 1 Sew the back and front inside legs together Step 2 Then stitch the back crotch seam from the back waist through to the front crotch and up to the front waist. Step 3 Sew the front and back outside… Read More

Step 1 Fuse noted pieces. Sew fly facing to right side crotch. Step 2 Turn to face & press. Set aside. Step 3 Sew zipper to left side crotch. Step 4 Cover zipper with bearer & sew. Turn to face & top-stitch close to seam. Step 5 Join left & right crotch seams up to… Read More

How to Sew Double Welt / Jetted Pockets Step 1 Fuse noted pieces. Lay welts on right side of a piece & stitch between notches. Step 2 Fold welts & cut main fabric forming corners at ends. Cut corners 2mm from seam. Step 3 Pull welts through cut & form neat binds at each end… Read More

Step 1 Pin top sleeve & under sleeve pieces together. Stretch undersleeve slightly to cover the top sleeve ease. Distribute the ease evenly. Step 2 Stitch seam from under sleeve, making sure there no tucks or pleats in the seam. Step 3 Pin & stitch the second seam. Step 4 Press all seams open.

Step 1 Make x3 rows of loose stitching on the sleeve cap only. Make sure the stitchings are located inside the seam allowance. Step 2 From the inside of the garment pin sleeve to armhole matching notches. Then start pulling the threads to gather the sleeve cap so it matches the armhole. Distribute ease evenly…. Read More

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

This is a quick & neat technique & you can use it to sew any type of binding – neck, armhole, hem, splits, etc… Step 1 Fold binding in half lengthwise & press. Step 2 Then fold seam allowance of one of the edges & press. Step 3 Pin & sew unfolded edge of binding… Read More

Step 1 Sew shoulder seams of both top & inner yokes (sometimes front & back yokes are connected together into one piece). Step 2 Sandwich back piece between yokes & sew back seam. Step 3 Fold yokes upwards & press neatly. Step 4 Roll the whole back piece & pin to keep out of the… Read More

Step 1 Sew pocket facings to the pocket bags and press. Step 2 Sew pocket bags to main piece between notches. Turn back & press lower pocket bag only. Step 3 Lay top & lower pockets, pin and stitch the seam and around pocket bags. Make sure that seams and perfectly aligned. Step 4 Before… Read More

Step 1 Slash and square lines (A) and (B). Step 2 Open centre by pivoting pieces from points (A) and (B) – like shown on the diagram. Step 3 Square off hemline. And smoothen the shape of sleeve head. Step 4 The outer pattern measurements remain as original. And the cross head and the girth… Read More

Step 1 Use basic back leg pattern piece. This original pattern should measure up to your waist and hip measurement. Redraw this piece to work on as it is important to retain the original pattern piece to keep as a reference. The straight grain line is obtained by folding the pattern piece in ½ starting… Read More

Step 1 To create a neat corner Fold corner on 45 degrees, match notches & pin Step 2 Then using tailor’s chalk draw a line front the notches to the folded edge. Make sure the line is on 90 degrees from the folded edge. Then stitch along the line. Step 3 Trim access fabric; turn… Read More

Step 1. Connect side seams. Lay facing on top of main garment (right sides facing). Sew centre back, armholes & necklines stopping 5cm from shoulder seams. Step 2. Turn to face, press & understitch where possible. Step 3. Pull shoulder seams through inside, pin & sew shoulder seams. Step 4. Then pin & sew the… Read More

Step 1. Turn zipper to wrong side & align with pattern edges. Step 2. Using tailor’s chalk make several marks on fabric & zip. These marks will help you to align zipper & fabric evenly when sewing zipper in. Step 3. Open zipper fully & place one edge of the zipper over edge of pattern… Read More

Ziggi Sew-Along: Almost inseam pockets & zippers … Continue Reading On www.sewmaris.com

This tutorial is showing how to shorten Toni Designer Dress: