CONSTRUCTION
POCKETS:
With RST and aligning notches, sew one set of pockets (4) to the front leg (1) at the side seam (seamline ‘A’ on the pattern). Sew only between the notches.
Clip to the seam at the notches and sew an understitch on the side of the pocket bag.
Turn to the right side and sew a 6mm (1/4”) top stitch along the pocket opening and across the top and the base of the front pocket.
With RST, lay pocket bag 2 on top of pocket bag 1, align and sew both pocket bags together (seamline ‘B’ on the pattern). Note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back leg side seam.
Neaten around the pockets using an overlocker/serger. Secure stitch each end of the pocket opening.
Fold the pockets to the inside of the front legs and baste the pockets across the top front waist securing the top edges of the pocket to the waist. Baste the side top and base of the pocket to the side seam.
LEGS:
With RST, pin the front leg to the back leg (2) at the side seam. If using the pocket, start at the waist and sew along the side seam; sew carefully through the straight edge of the under pocket (pocket bag 2), continue sewing to finish at the leg opening. Take care to not catch the front pocket opening as you go. Neaten the seam using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
With RST, sew the front and back in leg seams together, neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
With RST, sew front and back crotch seams. Neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger and press toward the wearers right.
WAISTBAND AND COMPLETION
For optional waist cord only: fuse the wrong side of the waistband (3) where the buttonholes are to go. Sew two buttonholes to one side of the waistband as marked on the pattern. With right sides together, sew the two short ends of the centre back waist seam and press open.
Cut the elastic to your personal preferred length, lay the short ends over each other and stitch firmly together. Fold the waistband in half lengthways with wrong sides facing and press.
With pen or chalk, mark the elastic into quarters (centre back, centre front and side seams). This will ensure the elastic is evenly positioned in the waistband and the chalk marks will match the notches. Pin the elastic into place inside the waistband close to the prepressed fold line and fold the fabric over to create the waistband. Baste the raw edges of the waistband together.
Topstitch the two rows of stitching through the waistband (where marked on the pattern), stretching the elastic as you go. Pin the waistband to the top of the pants, aligning the notches. Once in place, sew the waistband to the top of the pants. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press downwards. If using the waist cord thread into one buttonhole and out of the other.
Neaten the hems using an overlocker/serger, turn up to your personal length and topstitch. Press your new pant!