WEIGHT • DRAPE • STRETCH • STRUCTURE
Fabric weight is only part of the story. How a fabric behaves affects the way your garment looks, feels and performs.
Fabric weight
GSM means grams per square metre (g/m²). Fabric weight may also be given in ounces per square yard (oz/yd²). These Style Arc bands are a guide; consider the fabric’s behaviour as well as its weight.
| Style Arc weight | g/m² | Approx. oz/yd² | Examples |
|---|---|---|---|
| Light weight | Under 150 | 4.4 | Fine shirting, voile, lawn, rayon, light jersey, chiffon |
| Medium weight | 150-250 | 4.4–7.4 | Linen, chambray, cottons, T-shirt knits, light denim |
| Heavy weight | Over 250 | Over 7.4 | Denim, canvas, fleece, coating |
THE KEY RULE
GSM / oz/yd² tells you the fabric’s weight, not how it will behave. Fibre content, weave or knit structure, drape, stretch and finish also affect the result.
DRAPE
Drape describes how fabric falls and moves. Fluid fabrics create soft folds and flowing shapes; crisp fabrics hold their shape. Choose the level of drape that suits the finished garment.
STRETCH
Check both the amount and direction of stretch before cutting. Some fabrics stretch because of their construction; others contain stretch fibres. Follow the pattern’s fabric and stretch recommendations.
High stretch and return: used in fitted styles and activewear, often with four-way stretch.
STRUCTURE
Structure describes how firmly a fabric holds its shape. Construction also matters: woven examples include plain weave, drill, satin and crepe; knit examples include jersey, double knit, rib and French terry.
FINISH
A finish changes the fabric’s surface or feel.
Washed/peached: softer hand feel.
Coated/laminated: more stability and weather resistance.
Textured/napped: warmth, interest or grip, such as velvet and fleece.
PRE-WASHING
Pre-wash or pre-treat before cutting, following the fabric’s care instructions. This allows for shrinkage and removes finishes. Delicate or speciality fabrics may need a gentle hand wash or steam press instead.
PRESSING
Press before cutting to remove creases and set the grain. Test the temperature on a scrap and use a pressing cloth where needed. Press seams as you sew to help the garment hold its shape.
TEST A SWATCH FIRST
Pre-wash, press and check a small swatch for shrinkage, colour fastness, stretch and how it behaves with the sewing techniques used in your pattern.