CONSTRUCTION
Click to watch a step by step sew along video for how to sew the pleats, round neck facing and invisible zip.
WAIST PLEATS:
Before removing the pattern pieces, carefully mark the + on the Front (1) and Back (2) indicating the pleats, to the wrong side of the fabric using tailors chalk or erasable pen.
With RST, align the marks and pin the pleats into place. Sew the pleats then press toward the side seams.
BACK ZIP:
See our website tutorial for sewing invisible zips.
Neaten each centre back edge separately using an overlocker/serger.
Carefully sew the invisible zip to the centre back of the dress using an invisible zipper foot.
Change back to the standard presser foot and sew the remainder of the centre back seam. Press the centre back seam open and lightly press the zip.
OPTIONAL INSEAM POCKETS:
See our website tutorial and YouTube video for sewing inseam pockets.
With RST and notches aligned, sew one set of Pockets (5) to the Front (1) at the side seam (seamline marked ‘A’ on the pattern). Stitch only between the notches. Clip the seam at the notches and sew an understitch on the side of the pocket bag. This is pocket bag 1.
With RST, lay pocket bag 2 on top of pocket bag 1, align and sew both pocket bags together (seamline marked ‘B’ on the pattern). Note that the straight edge of pocket bag 2 is left free to sew to the back side seam. Neaten around the pockets using an overlocker/serger. Secure stitch each end of the pocket opening.
V NECK OPTION:
With RST, sew the centre front seam of the V Neck Facing (7), starting at the base of the facing and finish 6mm (1/4”) before the cut edge – see marking on the pattern. Press open. Trim the corners.
With RST, sew the v neck facing to the Back Neck Facing (3) at the shoulder seams. Press open. Neaten around the outside edge of the facing using an overlocker/ serger.
With RST, sew the back to front at the shoulder seams. Neaten using an overlocker/ serger and press the seams toward the back. Sew a stay stitch to the neckline to prevent stretching. Neaten each centre front edge separately using an overlocker/serger.
With RST and notches aligned, sew the centre front of the dress from the hem and finishing 6mm (1/4”) before the cut edge – see the ‘+’ marking on the pattern. Press open.
With RST and seams aligned, pin the neck facing to the neck opening. Starting 7.5cm (3”) from the centre back, using a 6mm (1/4”) seam, stitch the facing into place, when arriving at the V, with the needle down, turn and continue sewing around the neck, finishing 7.5cm (3”) from the centre back on the opposite side. The facing will be completed later.
ROUND NECK OPTION:
With RST, sew the Front Neck Facing (4) to the Back Neck Facing (3) at the shoulder seams. Neaten around the outside edge of the facing using an overlocker/serger. Press open.
Neaten each centre front edge separately using an overlocker/serger. With RST and notches aligned, sew the centre front seam. Press open.
With RST, sew the back to front at the shoulder seams. Neaten using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back. Sew a stay stitch to the neck opening to prevent stretching.
With RST and seams aligned, pin the neck facing to the neck opening. Starting 7.5cm (3”) from the centre back, using a 6mm (1/4”) seam, sew the facing into place, finishing 7.5cm (3”) from the centre back on the opposite side. The facing will be completed later.
FINISHING THE FACING – V AND ROUND NECK:
With the right side of the facing to the wrong side of the zip tape, and using a regular presser foot, sew the facing to the zip in line with the notch.
With RST, straighten out the back neckline, the zip tape will be toward the facing and the teeth to the fold. Sew the remaining facing to back at the neckline using a 6mm (1/4”) seam, sandwiching the end of the zip tape.
Clip the corners, carefully clip the curved seam to create a nice smooth neckline and turn to the right side. Press, then sew an understitch on the side of the facing.
Carefully hand sew the facing to the shoulder and centre front seams on the body to hold it in place.
COMPLETING THE SLEEVELESS VERSION:
With WST, fold the binding in half lengthways and press
With RST, pin the raw edges of the folded binding to the arm opening. Sew using a 6mm (1/4”) seam, clip into the seam at the underarm, press the seam toward the binding and sew an under stitch on the side of the binding.
With RST, pin then sew the front to back at the side seams and through the binding, taking care to not catch the pocket opening as you sew (if using). Neaten using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
Turn the binding to the inside, press, pin and top stitch into place.
Neaten the hem using an overlocker/serger. Turn the hem 2cm (3/4”) to the inside, pin and hand sew or top stitch into place.
Trim any loose threads and carefully press your new dress.
COMPLETING THE SLEEVED VERSION:
With RST, pin then sew the front to back at the side seams and the underarm, taking care to not catch the pocket opening as you sew (if using). Clip into the seam allowance at the underarm curve and then neaten using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
Neaten the arm opening using an overlocker/serger. Turn 2cm (3/4”) to the inside, pin and hand sew or top stitch into place. Trim any loose threads and carefully press your new dress.
