CONSTRUCTION:
HEM BAND & CUFFS:
With RST sew the short ends of both waistbands (11) together, press the seams open and turn out to the right side. Fold in half lengthways and baste the two raw edges together to hold in place. Set aside until Step 16.
With RST sew the two short ends of the cuffs (10) together, turn out to the right side, fold in half lengthways and sew the two raw edges together to hold in place. Set aside until Step 17.
BODY:
With RST sew the front (2) shoulder seams to the back (1) shoulder seams. Serge/overlock the seams, press towards the back and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam.
With RST sew the neckline of the outer collar (7) to the neck of the body, matching the notches as you sew. Press the seam towards the body.
Neaten the outer edges of the front facings (6) with a contrast binding (9) or a serger/overlocker.
With RST, sew the top edge of the front facing (6) to the front neck edge of the under collar and press the seam toward the facing.
Pin the zip to the front edges of the outer collar. Starting at the halfway collar notch and the top front, stitch the zip in place. The zip is to finish at the yoke seam.
With RST fold the collar and facing over the zip and stitch together, sandwiching the zip between the top front, collar and front facing.
Sew the inner collar to the neckline, matching the top collar stitch line. Neaten the neck seam with a contrast bind or a serger/overlocker and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch to the neck on top of the seam.
Press the collar and zip seam and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch along each side of the zip.
Using a zipper foot (to allow ease of sewing past the zip end) and with right sides facing sew the lower front body to the top front ensuring the zip is at the centre front.
Neaten the seam with a serger or overlocker, press the seam down towards the lower body and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam.
With RST sew the top sleeve (4) and under sleeve (5) together, matching at the notch. Neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger, press the seam towards top sleeve and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam.
With RST sew the sleeve head into the armholes matching the notches as you sew. Neaten the seam with a serger/overlocker and press the seam towards the body. Sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam.
With RST sew the back and front side seams together; sew from the waist up to the underarm and continue sewing along the sleeve to the sleeve opening.
With RST sew the hem band (11) to the waist of the body, matching the side seams as you sew. Neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger, press the seam towards the body and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam.
With RST sew the cuff (10) to the sleeve opening, matching the under-sleeve seams to the cuff seams as you sew. Neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger, press the seam towards the body and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam.
Lightly press your new top.