Cruise Club Kim Dress Multi-Size

2 reviews for Cruise Club Kim Dress

1. 

   3 out of 5

   Format Reviewed: PDF Digital Pattern - Single-Size

   k***a (verified owner) – January 14, 2021:

   Whilst this is a nice little summer dress, I was somewhat disappointed with the fit and the cut of the bodice, especially the armholes. I am75 yrs old, size 12, D cup, and I needed every bit of that size, with no ease. I used a cotton knit with not a lot of stretch, it may be better with a more stretchy knit.
   I found the armholes too tight, so had to cut a good 1/2 inch lower,( probably needed more than 1/2 inch), the curve to the shoulder too wide at the front but not at the back, where it shows my bra straps.
   I have had to put a curved shaped dart at the front of the armhole to stop the wideness, hoping the dart won’t show on the pattern of the knit.
   I also lowered the neckline at the front to a more attractive V shape, as I don’t like the look of a singlet.
   Otherwise with these modifications, it is a nice little dress.

2. 

   3 out of 5

   Format Reviewed: PDF Digital Pattern - Single-Size

   d**2 (verified owner) – May 21, 2020:

   This is a cute dress. It was easy to download the file, assemble it and cut it out. It was listed as a beginner’s project and it is quite simple. Though I think a beginner would benefit from better instructions/information.

   It would be helpful if you included a list of notions on the website – before purchasing and downloading the pattern. Many sewers like me, like to see if we have all the notions required before going to the fabric store. I wasn’t aware that tearaway interfacing was required until I had actually downloaded the file and assembled the pattern. I curiously noticed the tearaway vilene pieces – nowhere else in the file was vilene mentioned. Had I know that interfacing was needed, I would have picked it up when I bought the fabric – so I had to take a second trip out. Not good, especially during the COVID quarantine.

   Second, there is nomenclature used that is not in common use. For example, you used the acronym “S/G” on some of the neck and arm pieces. I surmised it to mean “Straight Grain”; however, I’d never seen it displayed that way. I googled it on a dozen or so sewing glossaries and wasn’t able to find it. Might I suggest the addition of an abbreviations table to make it clear.

   Third, the actual assembly instructions consists of only 7 lines of text. No graphics are included. And there is NO mention of using the tear away interfacing at all. A beginner would be very confused about this. What to do with the interfacing.

   I have been sewing for 40+ years, and had no problem figuring the assembly out, but with just a bit more guidance – to help and encourage new sewers – this would truly be a strong beginner’s project.

   One last note. I know you are from Australia, but note that in the US we don’t use the term “vilene” – we just say use a tear away interfacing that matches the weight of the fabric.

Choosing your pattern size is the most important step and we will help you determine this with these easy to follow steps.

1. When taking your measurements ensure that you take them against your skin and not over clothing. One can wear a comfortable bra and knickers whilst measuring, as this will provide you with the most accurate measurements.
2. Tape measure has to sit firmly around the points you are measuring. But be careful not to pull it too tight, as this will give you the incorrect size.
3. When measuring circumferences (B, C, D, E) it is important to note that the tape measure must remain parallel to the floor. It is sometimes best to take the measurements in front of a mirror; this will help you see the angle of the tape measure.
4. You will only require the basic body measurements to determine your pattern size which is indicated on our mannequin below:

A. Shoulder Breadth

Place the tape at the edge of the shoulder. Measure along the top of the shoulder blade/across the highest point of the shoulders to the other edge, following the natural slope and allow an extra finger for ease of any movement.

B. Upper Arm Girth

This point is taken as a circumference at your widest point of your upper arm.

C. Bust

This point is taken as a circumference parallel to the floor at the fullest part of your chest.

D. Waist

This point is taken as a circumference and taken at the smallest part of your waist.

E. Hip

This point is taken as a circumference parallel to the floor at the widest part of your hips.