CONSTRUCTION
POCKET:
Neaten the top edge of the Pocket (6) with an overlocker/serger and turn to the inside with RST along the fold line. Sew along each side of the turnover, clip the corners and turn the pocket top out to the right side.
Fold sides and base of pocket seams inwards and press.
Sew a twin needle topstitch along the edge of the top folded hem of the pocket.
Pin the pockets to the front pattern pieces, following markings. Once in place sew around the outer edges with a 6mm (¼”) edge stitch. Secure the top corners of the pocket.
BODY AND SLEEVES:
With RST sew Front (2) and Back (1) shoulder seams together. Neaten with overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
From the right side of the fabric sew a top stitch 6mm (¼”) along the shoulder seam towards the back.
Sew a stay stitch around the back neckline, to ensure no stretching.
Overlock/serge the edges of the side seams, around the side splits and along the hem edge of the front and back panels. Then with RST sew the front and back side seams together, start at the underarm and stop at the mark at the top of the side split. Press the seams open all the way down to the hem.
Neaten the Sleeve (5) hem edge with overlocker/serger. With RST sew the sleeve underarm seam together. Neaten the seam with overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
With RST sew the sleeve to the armhole, aligning the sleeve underarm seams to body side seam and aligning the sleeve shoulder notch to the body shoulder seam. Neaten with overlocker/serger and press the seam toward the body.
Turn the sleeve hem to inside (wrong side) along the fold line, press, and topstitch.
With RST, sew the short ends of the Back Neckband (4) to the curved end of the Front Band (3) marked “side neck”, creating one long band. Press the seams open.
With RST sew across the hem ends of the front band, clip the corners, turn out to the right side and press.
With WST fold front tab along the fold line lengthways. Sew a stay stitch to hold the two raw edges together.
With RST pin the neck band to the front of the coat, aligning the front hem, body notches, side neck seam and CB notch.
Fold the front body hem to the inside and over the front band, and secure with a pin. Once in place, stitch along the total band seam and neaten with overlocker/serger. Pull the front band out to the right side at the hem and press the seam toward the body.
From the right side of the coat, sew a topstitch 6mm (¼”) around the front and back neck bands, on the side of the body.
On each side split, with RST sew the mitred corners and press seams open. See mitred hem tutorial on the Style Arc website and diagram.
Fold main hems and side splits toward the inside, press and pin into place. Topstitch the hem starting at the RHS front band seam, turn the corner at the side split, sew along the side of the first split, across the top and down the opposite side. Continue along the back hem, all the way around the second split, and finish at the front LHS band seam. Keep the needle down, raise the presser foot and pivot when turning the corners.
Press your finished coat.