Shop the Beckers Woven Dress
TUTORIALS
Click below to watch a two-part sew along video:
Part 1:
Part 2:
PHOTO TUTORIAL
COLLAR:
With RST, sew the outer and short ends of the Collars (9) together using a 6mm (1/4”) seam allowance. Clip the corners, turn out to the right side and press.
Press the 6mm (1/4”) seam allowance of the lower edge of one collar Stand (8) to the wrong side of fabric. This will be the outer stand. Place the collar between the right sides of the collar stands and stitch together, sandwiching the collar between the two collar stands. Clip the curved seam, turn to the right side.
Press and put aside.
ATTACHING THE COLLAR AND PLACKET:
With WST, fold the pair of Plackets (14) in half lengthways and press. Press one long edge under 1cm (3/8”) to the wrong side of fabric. This side will be the outer placket. You should have a mirrored pair.
With notches aligned, pin the right side of the inner placket to the wrong side of the front cutaway of Front Dress Bodice (1) or Front Overshirt (5) as marked on the pattern and sew using a 1cm (3/8”) seam, stopping 1cm (3/8”) from the bottom edge of the placket.
Carefully clip into the corners as shown on the pattern.
Pin the outer placket to the right side of the front placket opening and edge stitch the placket into place, stopping 1cm (3/8”) from the bottom edge.
Lap the right placket in front of the left placket. From the inside, sew the bottom edges of the plackets to the bottom edge of the placket opening. Sew from one clipped corner to the other, taking care not to catch the corners to prevent any little tucks appearing. Neaten the bottom of the placket using an overlocker/serger and press.
With RST, sew the Front Over Shirt (5) to Back Over Shirt (6) OR Front Dress Bodice (1) to the Back Dress Bodice (2) at the shoulder seams. Neaten using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back. Sew a stay stitch to the neckline to prevent stretching.
Sew the inside collar stand to the wrong side of the neckline with a 6mm (1/4”) seam allowance, aligning the notches. Pin, then sew the pre-pressed edge of the outer collar stand to the neckline with an edge stitch on side of the collar stand, continue the edge stitch completely around the collar stand.
For further help constructing the collar and stand, please see our illustrated tutorial or YouTube skill builder.
OPTIONAL TIE (11) AND BELT LOOPS (12):
With RST, sew the Tie (11) pieces together at the centre back. Press open.
With RST fold the tie in half lengthways and sew the short ends and along the length, leaving a gap for turning out as shown on the pattern. Clip the corners and turn out. Press then sew an edge stitch around the outer edges, closing the gap used to turn out as you sew.
With RST, fold the Belt Loops (12) in half lengthways and sew the long edge. Turn out to the right side and press. Cut in two and put aside.
OPTIONAL SLEEVE TAB (16):
With RST fold the tab in half lengthways and sew across one short end and down the side. Clip the corner and turn out to the right side. Neaten the cut top edge with an overlocker/serger and press.
Make the buttonhole as marked on the pattern.
Pin the tab to the inside of the sleeve as marked on the pattern. Once in place stitch to the sleeve with a box X stitch.
Sew the button to the outside of the sleeve, on top of the box X stitching.
OPTIONAL POCKETS (You may choose to omit the left pocket to allow for the zip):
With RST and notches aligned, sew one set of Pockets (10) to the Front Skirt at the side seam (seamline marked ‘A’ on the pattern). Stitch only between the notches. Clip the seam at the notches and sew an understitch on the side of the pocket bag. This is pocket bag 1.
With RST, lay pocket bag 2 on top of pocket bag 1, align and sew both pocket bags together (seamline marked ‘B’ on the pattern). Note that the straight edge of pocket bag 2 is left free to sew to the back skirt side seam. Neaten around the pockets using an overlocker/serger. Secure stitch each end of the pocket opening.
For further help constructing the collar and stand, please see our illustrated tutorial or YouTube skill builder.
DRESS OPTION ONLY
MAIN BODY:
Sew the darts in the Front Skirt (3) and Back Skirt (4). Press toward the centre front/centre back.
Using a large gathering stitch, sew two rows of stitching along the seamline between the notches on the Front Dress Bodice (1) and Back Dress Bodice (2), then gather up to align with the notches marked on the skirt. With RST and notches aligned, pin the bodices to the skirts and sew together. Neaten using an overlocker/serger and press downward.
Form the belt loops into a loop shape and baste the cut edges to the Front Skirt (3) or the Front Overshirt (5) as shown on the pattern. Note the loops are facing inward. When the side seam is complete, the loop will face outward.
With RST and notches aligned, pin the Short Sleeve (15) or Long Sleeve (13) head to the arm opening. Sew then neaten using an overlocker/serger. Press toward the sleeve.
On the left side only, using an overlocker/serger, neaten the front and back side seams separately from the under arm to 5cm (2”) lower than the notch indicating the bottom of the zip.
Sew the invisible zip into place. For further help sewing with an invisible zipper, please see our illustrated tutorial .
With RST and notches aligned, pin the front to the back at the side seams and under sleeve. Starting at the hem, sew the side seam taking care not to catch the back of the pocket (if using), sew up to the bottom of the zip and then again from the top of the zip to the sleeve opening. Neaten the remaining raw edges using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
Turn the hem 1cm (3/8”) to the inside and press. Turn again 3cm (1.1/8”) to the inside, press and top stitch into place. You may choose to neaten the hem using an overlocker serger and turn up once or to use a twin needle.
OVERSHIRT OPTION ONLY
MAIN BODY:
With RST and notches aligned, pin the Short Sleeve (15) OR Long Sleeve (13) head to the arm opening. Sew then neaten using an overlocker/serger. Press toward the sleeve.
Starting 2.5cm (1”) above the notch indicating the hem split, neaten the curved hem of the Front with an overlocker/serger, finishing 2.5cm (1”) above the notch on the other side. Repeat with the Back.
With RST and notches aligned, pin the front to back at the side seams and under sleeve. Starting at the hem split notch, sew the side seam, finishing at the sleeve opening. The armhole/sleeve seam should lay facing toward the sleeve (this allows the armhole to sit better).
Carefully pin the curved hem 1cm (3/8”) to the inside and top stitch the hem and across the top of the hem split. Press.
CUFFS AND COMPLETION:
With RST, sew the short ends of the Cuff (7) together and sew. Press the seam open.
With WST, fold the cuff in half, creating a loop and press.
Press the seam allowance (1cm (3/8”) of one edge of the cuff to the inside. This is the outer edge.
Pin the right side of the unfolded edge of the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve opening and sew. Press toward the cuff.
Pin the outer edge of the cuff to the right side of the sleeve opening and top stitch into place.
Trim any loose threads and carefully press your new dress or shirt.
