FRONT ANGLED POCKET & SIDE SEAM:
With right sides facing sew the pocket bag to the angled pocket seam on the front leg, turn the pocket to the inside and understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag.
Sew a twin needle topstitch along the pocket opening.
With right sides facing sew the pocket bearer to the pocket bag around the outer edges. Neaten with overlocker/serger. Press and pin pocket to the leg to hold in place while you stay stitch along the top of the pocket at the waist seam and down the pocket at the side seam.
With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams together. Overlock/serge the seams and press towards the back. Turn to the right side and sew a twin needle topstitch down the leg on the side of the back leg.
SIDE SEAM INVERTED PLEAT POCKET & FLAP:
With right sides facing fold the leg pocket in half matching the outer inverted pleat notches, sew from the outer notch at the top of the pocket down to the * marked on the pattern and from the base of the pocket up to the * marked on the pattern. Press open creating an inverted pleat.
Fold the pocket top to the right side and sew down each side, clip the corners and turn to the right side. Press the remaining three seam allowances inward. Sew a twin needle topstitch across the base of the top turn back.
Pin the pleated pocket to the leg following the markings on the pattern, half on the front leg and half on the back leg. Once in place sew the three outer edges on with a twin needle topstitch.
Fold the pocket flap in half with right sides facing, sew down each short end. Clip the corners and turn out to the right side and press. Sew a twin needle topstitch around the stitched edges of the flaps.
Pin the flap above the inverted pocket using the markings on the pattern pieces. Stitch the flap in place along the raw edge then fold it over the pocket and sew a twin needle topstitch along the top of the pocket flap.
BACK PATCH POCKETS:
With right sides facing fold the top of the back pocket, stitch down each end, clip the corners and turn out to the right side. Press the remaining three outer seam allowances inward. Sew a twin needle across the top of the pocket at base of the turn back.
Pin the back pockets to the back legs as marked on the pattern, once in place stitch around the outer edges with a twin needle topstitch.
With right sides facing sew the front and back inside legs together, overlock/serge the seam and press toward the back.
With the right sides together sew the front and back crotch seams. Start sewing at the centre front notch, sew down to the base of the crotch and continue sewing up the back crotch finishing at the back waist seam. Overlock/serge the seam and press toward the wearers right.
Pin the faux fly to the wearers right leg and sew around the outer edge with a twin needle topstitch stopping at the crotch seam.
Sew a twin needle topstitch around the crotch seam starting at the base of the faux fly and finishing at the back waist (not pictured).
With right sides facing sew the short ends of the waistband together and press the seam open.
With right sides on the outer press the waistband in half to obtain a press line as a guide for the top edge of the elastic.
Cut the elastic to your personal length and sew the short ends together by laying one edge over the other and sewing together securely.
Place the elastic inside the waistband at the fold line, fold the waistband over the elastic and stay stitch the two raw edges of the waistbands together.
Even out the elastic around the waistband by stretching the elastic out and pinning the waistband to the elastic.
With right sides facing sew the waistband to the waist of the pant, being careful not to catch the elastic as you sew. Overlock/serge the seam and press downward.
Sew a vertical topstitch through the centre back and sides to prevent the elastic from rolling.
Overlock/serge the leg hem edge. Turn the hem once to the inside and stitch with a twin needle topstitch or a hand stitch.
Press your new pants.