BODICE & SLEEVES:
With right sides facing sew the centre front seam together. Neaten seam with overlocker/serger and press to the wearer’s right.
Turn to the right side of the fabric and topstitch 6mm (¼”) on the wearer’s right front piece, through the seam allowance underneath.
With right sides facing sew the centre back seam together.
NOTE: for the woven neck finish at the centre back seam notch for back split opening, neaten each seam separately up to the back neck and press open.
For knit fabric neaten seam with overlocker/serger and press to the wearer’s left. Turn to the right side of the fabric and topstitch 6mm (¼”) on the left front piece, through the seam allowance underneath. Stay-stitch neckline.
Following the markings on the pattern sew two rows of shirring on each side of the bodice (sleeve).
With right sides facing sew the underarm seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press to the back. Sew a stay stitch around the hem of the bodice, to keep from stretching the fabric.
Neaten the sleeve hem with overlocker/serger and fold towards the inside, along the fold line. Stitch down 2cm (¾”) from the folded edge.
With right sides facing sew the two short ends of the neckband together and press seam open. Turn out to the right side and fold in half lengthways with wrong sides facing. Sew a stay stitch to the two raw edges to hold in place (not pictured).
With right sides facing sew the neckband to the neck of the dress, matching the centre back seams, the neckband will be stretched on as you sew. Once sewn neaten with overlocker/serger and press towards the
Turn to the correct side of the fabric and understitch on the side of the body (not pictured).
NECKBIND FOR WOVEN VERSION ONLY (NOT PICTURED):
Fold and press the back neck split opening towards the inside and sew a top stitch around the opening.
With right sides facing fold the back neck loop in half, lengthways. Sew down the middle twice, for extra strength and turn out to the right side. Create a loop by sewing the two ends of the loop together, then place on the left back body, as marked on the pattern and stitch down. The loop will face inward at this stage, once the neck facing is sewn to the body and turned out the loop will face outward.
With wrong sides facing fold the neck bind in half, lengthways. Sew a stay stitch along the two raw edges of the neck bind.
With right sides facing pin the binding to the neckline, once in place stitch together 6mm (¼”). Press seam towards the bind.
Sew an understitch close to the seam on the side of the binding. Turn the binding over, towards the inside of the dress and pin down. Turn the centre back edges of the bind inwards, or bag out for a neater finish. Once in place top stitch around the neckline, stitching the binding down 6mm (¼”) from the edge.
Sew a button to the right back neck to line up with your loop.
SKIRT & COMPLETION:
With right sides facing sew one set of the pockets marked “A” to the front skirt side seam marked “A” on the pattern, clip at the notches and sew an understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag.
With right sides together sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front side seam, stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket “B” to “B”, note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back skirt’s side seam. Neaten the outer edge of the pocket with overlocker/serger.
With right sides facing sew the front side seams to the back side seams, starting at the waist and continuing down the side seam stitching through the straight edge of the back pocket, be careful not to catch the front pocket opening. Neaten seam with overlocker/serger and press to the back (overlocking not pictured).
Sew two large gathering stitches to the top of the waist, where noted on the pattern. Gather in the top of the skirt to match the notches on the bottom of the bodice.
With right sides facing pin the skirt to the bodice, matching notches, and side seams. Once in place stitch together and neaten with overlocker/serger. Neaten hem with overlocker/serger and press towards the inside, at your desired length. Stitch down.
Lightly press your new dress!